Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Falles en la Alta Ribagorça

There was a full moon that night. And we watched the pageant. Women, men, children, parading through the little town of Taüll. And they waited for the flaming torches to illuminate the small  Plaça de Santa María

An eerie light on the mountain. The smell of smoke and burnt wood began to fill the air, and we were huddled around this ancient square, all witnessing the baixada

In the background the band played a march-like tune, constantly repeating, pulsating, as we cheered and viewed with amazement the approaching spectacle. A group led by the fadri ran furiously toward the narrow streets. The embers floated throughout the square, pieces of flaming wood danced through the air in an unreal ballet of light. Someone  screamed in English "Avoid the embers", and whirling fire carriers ran around the small square.
Group on the Mountain
A baixada is a traditional Catalan, Summer-time celebration. These folks run down the mountain with falles de pal, enormous torches made of pine and ash. Tall, short, fat, old, men and women carry the torches and illuminate the night! They start at the top, and with their torches lighted the group files slowly down the steep slope toward the tiny town of Taüll, famous for its twelfth-century churches. Awesome sight!

There we where, all cheering and yelling encouragement. The whirling smoke is dizzying. The flames flickered as the torches rushed through the plaça. 

Toto, I've a feeling we're not in Kansas any more.

No comments:

Post a Comment